Bellingham centered in kayaking heaven

Looking out over the industrialized shoreline of Bellingham, one might be forgiven for not having an urge to immediately hop in a kayak and set out exploring the coastline. With mills, boatyards and warehouses crowding the space along the waterfront, not to mention sewer outfalls and toxic chemicals polluting the water quality, Bellingham might seem to be a destination for paddlers to skip.

Others would beg to differ.

"Bellingham is centered in kayak nirvana," said Lisa Wallis, president of the Whatcom Association of Kayak Enthusiasts, a local group of paddlers dedicated to furthering enjoyment and knowledge of the sport.

With its relatively protected waters, scenic beauty and amenities that cater specifically to kayakers, the Bellingham area is a destination for salty veterans and wobbly amateurs alike, she said.

"Most of the major manufacturers are located within a hundred mile radius, as well as many major kayak magazines," Wallis said. "This closeness allows the prospective kayaker to visit with the experts and learn about the sport."

Wallis' love affair with sea kayaking began eight years ago when her husband introduced her to the sport through white-water kayaking. The thrill of paddling the rushing rivers eventually evolved into the easy going enjoyment of the slower paced open-water boating.

"It is like backpacking on the water," Wallis said. "You embrace the ecosystem you travel through. The sea is like a big living, breathing organism, and when you are in your kayak, you are breathing and moving with it."

Adding to Bellingham's allure are destinations such as Lummi Island, Wildcat Cove, Chuckanut Bay, Padilla Bay and Clark's Point, said Steve Walker, the recreation coordinator for Western's Outdoor Center. These areas offer the paddler a diverse experience of big water challenges, wildlife and stunning vistas.

"The western shore of Lummi Island is a really dramatic example," Walker said. "There's big, steep cliffs, peregrine falcons nesting, wildflowers, and often you'll see otters swimming along the rocks. It's a really neat spot."

Walker said his interest in the sport began 25 years ago when he spoke to a kayaker cruising the waters near his Bainbridge Island home. That simple curiosity has since led him to kayak the Fjords of Sweden's coast, the huge saltwater inlets of Vancouver Island and the islands and peninsulas of his native Puget Sound.

A network of campgrounds set up specifically for kayakers and other muscle-powered boaters is also a big plus for the area's paddlers, Walker said. The Cascadia Marine Trail is a network of campsites throughout the San Juan Islands that is available to kayakers for $10.

Another attraction for those new to the sport is the great availability of instruction, information resources and rental equipment available in the Bellingham area, Walker said.

The Center has seven fiberglass kayaks on hand - five singles and two doubles - that come with paddles, a spare paddle, lifejacket, spray skirt, a weather radio and even a roof rack for a car. Important information such as nautical charts, current guides and instructional books and videos are available. The Center also sponsors guided day and overnight trips in the area during spring, summer and fall quarters.

Lakewood, Western's boathouse facility on Lake Whatcom, keeps an inventory of 20 plastic kayaks - eight doubles and 12 singles - that are available for the physical education department's kayak touring courses and student rental for $1. The boats may only be used on the lake and when classes are not in session. Instruction is available by enrolling in one of the kayak touring sections during class registration.

Whatcom County Parks and Recreation sponsors a variety of kayaking events, including instruction and sightseeing trips. It also provides kayaks and gear, and no previous kayaking experience is necessary for many of the guided day trips.

WAKE also provides instruction and trips to members and non-members alike, Wallis said. The association includes many certified instructors who are willing to discuss their experience with beginners. Participants must provide their own boat and gear.

Fairhaven Boatworks has 13 kayaks available: five plastic sit-on-top models, four single fiberglass boats and four double boats. Prices range from $7 to $18 per hour and $30 to $68 per day. The Boatworks is also right on the saltwater and next to a public boat ramp, making launching and landing very easy.

Before novices set out with their boat and sense of adventure, they should get instruction in kayak safety and rescue, Walker said. Even the relatively calm waters of the bay can get big in a hurry if strong winds begin blowing.

Walker said it is important for a kayaker to have the skills to recover from a spill in the chilly waters of the Puget Sound. By performing an Eskimo roll, a maneuver in which the boater uses the paddle to right the boat without leaving the cockpit, the kayaker can easily recover after flipping over. Alternatively, a wet exit may be used. This technique requires the paddler to leave the capsized boat, flip it over and get back in. Both methods require practice to be effective.

"The biggest danger is hypothermia," Walker said. "The water here fluctuates between 52 degrees in the summer and 48 degrees in the winter, and that will suck the heat out of your body pretty fast."

Other precautions paddlers can take are to never paddle alone, stay close to shore, carry spare warm clothes in a dry bag and wear a wet or dry suit, Walker said.

Experienced paddlers agree that the incredible experiences one will have while exploring the marine environment are outweighed by the dangers presented by the sea.

"There's something magical about sitting in a kayak, being at eye-level with the ocean," Walker said. "It's a feeling that's hard to find anywhere else."