October 1998 WAKE Newsletter
October 1998 WAKE Newsletter
Three encounters with The Three stooges In Barkley Sound
by Lisa, Nan and Jean , submitted by Al and Claudia Hartman
Lisa's Story
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I was waiting for my dad to give me a ride back to our
sail boat. My day had been spent taking in rays and enjoying
the sand beach on Hand Island, it was a much needed break
from the grind of sailing. The morning was perfect, sunny,
warm and light breezes; I was was able swim naked for
awhile. An onshore wind had picked up by one o’clock and was
soon howling through Louden Channel. I had just put my
bathing suit back on when three old guys came paddling in
from the white capped waters of the channel. For a short
time they just sat in their boats resting and staring at me,
it was kind of embarrassing really. The three guys finally
got out of their boats and introduced themselves. I was
getting bored and so it was fun to talk to the geezers. One
of them, he had a lot of white hair, said that they had
gotten up at 4:30 a.m. and took the early twassen Ferry.
They were able to launch from Toquart Bay by noon only to be
caught in high wind and seas. One of them, a balding guy,
was pretty tired, his boat did not have a rudder. He wanted
to stay on Hand Island but the other two wanted to move on,
another eight miles, to Amy Wallace Island where they could
stay the night in a cabin and then paddle on to the Deer
Group. I offered the tired guy some bread and cheese and he
soon recovered. I think he would have preferred to stay on
the Island with me but then my ride showed up. The last I
saw of them they were surfing wind waves headed toward the
Pinkertons.
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I and a friend paddled our double kayak to
Wells Island, a part of the Deer Group, beginning our trip
from Bamfield. We had hoped to find a fabulous sand beach
and great campsite unoccupied but instead we found three old
guys watching us land. They looked familiar, we had
stumbled, paddled, into a trio of W.A.K.E.rs. We had paddled
a long way that day, it was getting late and so we accepted
their invitation to share the campsite and have dinner. The
talkative one with lots of white hair said that they had
made a four mile crossing from Amy Wallace Channel to Wells
Island the day before and the circumnavigated Tzartus
Island, another fifteen plus miles. They enjoyed seeing the
Sea Arch at the seaward side of the island. Before we
arrived they had spent their second day of the island just
exploring the other small island in the area and stocking up
on fresh water. Dinner consisted of mussel and clam chowder,
bread and wine. The short, hyperactive guy, who shall remain
unnamed turned out to be an expert on mussel habitat and
behavior. By the time we finished dinner and washed the pots
and pans, the quietest member of the trio had used every one
they had, it started to rain and so the socializing ended.
At the crack of dawn, the hyperactive on went for a paddle.
The other two emerged from their tents later, packed up
their wet belongings and prepared to make a return crossing
to the Amy Wallace Island. They were not sure if they would
be welcome at the cabin anymore because the hyperactive one
had taken care of a personal need in full view of relatives
and friends-so much for modesty.
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Nans's Story
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Jean's Story
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Every year for a number of years now I return to Hand
Island, it is something I feel compelled to do. Moreover, I
always visit a small portion of beach on the protected side
of the island that has become my very own sacred place. I
won’t tell you why this is so; it is a most personal thing.
For the last few years I have had to paddle to the Broken
Group solo. This time I walked down the beach and found
my spot occupied by a trio of rather strange guys;
one didn’t talk much, another kept combing his abundant crop
of white hair and mustache, and the third guy seemed to be
in perpetual motion. They created a lot of noise by pounding
on logs with a hatchet and then with their bare hands they
were ripping off large chunks of wood. Later, they set fire
to all the wood they had gathered - a real bonfire. Then
they started berating each other because no one had packed
marshmallows. All in all they seemed harmless although odd
and so the next morning I built up enough courage to ask
them to help me with my boat. A little later they packed up
and headed toward Toquart Bay; the sea was mirror smooth. I
got my spot back. I wonder if they had enough sense between
all three of them to find their way home, wherever that
might be?
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It was during the Hot August that the
internationally known kayaker (Merv Davies) called and
offered to introduce the lessor known islands; the Deer
Group. This is a part of Barkley Sound that most folks only
hear about as it takes more effort to get there and is more
rugged with fewer landing sites. We (Al Hartman and myself)
drove to Merv’s house on Thurs. PM and in the morning about
4am Fri. (who can tell time that early?) we were up and
underway to catch the 5:15 am ferry at Tsawwassen
(pronounced sawwassen) which got us to Nanaimo (pronounced
Nanaimo) by 8 AM. We stopped in Port Alberni for breakfast
at “The One and Only Restaurant” and arrived at Toquart Bay
by noon. We paddled around the Stopper Islands and into the
wind and waves until we stopped at Hand Island for a break.
It was off to the Pinkerton Islands and into Julia Passage,
where we spent the night.
The next morning we crossed the Imperial
Eagle Channel and found the best campsite in the area, we
later discovered how lucky (no, that’s skill if I found it,
luck if you found it) we were. The campsites are few and not
many have good landing sites. After setting up camp, we set
off to explore the sea caves, sea arches, inlets and coves.
Thanks to Merv we had fresh mussels, clams, oysters and
fish. In fact, we brought back most of our packaged food.
Two Bellinghamers (Bellinghamsters ?) arrived the day before
we left, so we shared some of that day’s catch with them.
Off early the next day(to avoid the wind) we made the
crossing of the Imperial Eagle Channel with out incident. We
explored Julia Passage and the surrounding area that
afternoon. The next day it was off to the Pinkertons and a
campsite on Hand Island. It was hard to believe that all the
people in the Broken Islands go there to get away from
civilization and find 100's of people there to do the same.
Still, if you haven’t seen them, you will enjoy it and it is
well worth the effort.
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A Reply from John Janney, aka "The White Haired
Guy"
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Recommended books are: Island Paddling by Mary Ann Snowden
and Kayak Routes of the Pacific Northwest Coast by Peter
Mcgee. A very helpful guide will be found by purchasing a British
Columbia Outdoor Map of Barkley Sound.
Lessons Learned from My First Camping Trip
By Gary Reynolds
At the suggestion of our esteemed president, I've been asked to
contribute some thoughts on my first overnighter to one of the nearby
islands. I don't consider myself a novice camper, but since I've just
moved to this wonderful part of the country from South Carolina and
have only been kayaking for one week, I guess I'm qualified to
demonstrate how a complete amateur behaves "in the wild". It was a
simple trip: paddle from Guemes Island to Cypress Island, camp one
night, return. Yes, seemingly simple, yet full of lessons to be
learned -- and not just by me.
- Check Ferry Schedules Before Leaving
After rendezvous-ing at the Haggen parking lot on a bright and
warm Saturday morning, President Peggy, Karen Paulson, and I
headed south to Anacortes to catch the noon ferry to Guemes
Island. It was another spectacular Washington day. I was ready for
my first overnight trip; my only concern was if I would scratch my
new boat. We arrived at the terminal at five 'till noon. "These
ladies are organized and punctual", I thought. It was great timing
-- except for the fact that there is no noon ferry on Saturday. I
guess the operators enjoy a big lunch on the weekend; we had to
wait for the 1:00 PM crossing.
- Wear Lots of Sunscreen
This is pretty obvious, and luckily we already knew the harm that
the sun can bring. I just had to say that I am amazed at the
bright sunny weather you folks enjoy out here! When I was packing
for my departure from the sunny southeast, I considered giving my
sunscreen collection away. I'm certainly glad I didn't. I've been
in Bellingham since the end of July and I've only seen two hours
of showery weather. Does it ever rain in these here parts? (That's
some southern-speak; I really don't sound like that.)
- Don't Forget Your Tent
The paddle from Young County Park on the far north tip of Guemes
to Pelican Beach on Cypress was enjoyable, with just enough wind
and waves to bounce us around a little bit. I can't comment on the
current, tide (ebb or flow?), wave type (following, broaching,
confused?), et cetera, because I haven't learned enough
(confused?) to tell you. About all I can say with confidence is
that the water was colder than in South Carolina -- by about 40
degrees.
Once we arrived at the beach, we proceeded to unload and make
camp. Unfortunately, Karen's tent was accidentally left home.
Three people, one tent -- I guess someone's sleeping outside.
Fortunately, Karen travels with the biggest plastic tarp I've ever
seen (I think it use to cover a football field somewhere). She
proceeded to stow her gear in the tarp, making multiple tucks and
folds, kind of like a big blue burrito. What the heck, it's
shelter.
- Keep Your Wetsuit Clean
I'm afraid the most popular exclamation from Peggy was, "My
wetsuit STINKS! Stinks like a pair of boys sneakers!". Hmmm. Is
that a stronger smell than men's sneakers? What about women's
sneakers, do they ever reek? Being new to rubber wear (okay,
neoprene), I didn't know it acquires such an odor with time. I'll
be diligent about keeping my gear bacteria free from now on -- I
don't want to smell like Peggy! Going back to the question of
three people one tent, by unanimous decision, no one would be
sharing and enclosed space with the president.
- Don't Ask Peggy About Marine Biology
The three of us spent most of late Saturday afternoon paddling
around the north end of Cypress Island beneath Eagle Cliff. I
particularly enjoyed dodging in and out of the sheer rock walls,
decorated with the occasional starfish. Wishing to learn as much
as I can about the Puget Sound environment as I become a competent
kayaker, I had to ask my guide, "Why are the starfish purple?"
After what I thought was careful contemplation, perhaps to
translate the Latin phylum, genus, and species names into
something I could understand, she replied, "Because their mother
and father were." I guess I can't argue with that. (Aside: There's
a beer or beverage of choice to anyone who can tell me why the
starfish are purple.)
- Bring Enough Food for Three Weeks
I packed my kayak with a sleeping bag, Therm-a-Rest, water bottle,
and two small dry bags with food and clothes. I thought that was
all I needed until Peggy and Karen unloaded what seemed to be
three or four tons of who knows what. It became apparent at dinner
that the majority of their cargo was edible. I guess I felt the
most foolish when Karen was enjoying some mocha latte and Peggy
was diving into her salmon spread, gourmet baked beans, fancy
bagel sandwiches, grapes, and on and on and on. My entire food
allotment consisted of two peanut butter and jelly sandwiches, two
bananas, four Pop Tarts, two Cliff bars, and a bag of gorp. I
don't even need to tell you the condition of my PBJ's and bananas
after they've been compressed inside a dry bag. I guess I'm used
to backpacking where every ounce counts. Come to think of it, my
kayak was only about 30% full; I guess I know what to do with all
that space next time. Both Peggy and Karen were gracious enough to
share their food with me. They tried to convince me they were
emulating the archetypal southern belle to make me feel more at
home.
- Let Peggy Moore Build the Camp Fire
With the quarter moon rising and the Milky Way showing itself star
by star, Peggy and Karen proceeded to gather driftwood (drift logs
was more like it) and build a very picturesque, but very hot
"white man's fire". As Karen and I slowly slid further and further
back from the intense heat, Peggy -- with fire in her eyes, so to
speak -- placed a log about three feet in diameter into the coals.
A bit of overkill, but there's nothing like sitting around a camp
fire with a cold beer (thanks Peggy!) and friends.
- Do Trips Like This As Often As Possible
Sunday morning turned out to be a foggy one. Karen was kind enough
to let me sleep beneath part of the two or three acre span of her
tarp so as not to let my sleeping bag soak up a fog bank. It took
several hours for the fog to lift so we could make our return
paddle. We spent that time doing the usual beach camp things:
eating, skipping stones, poking dead jellyfish with sticks,
studying the charts and tide tables. The trip back was great.
Another brilliantly sunny day in Washington with the water as
smooth as glass.
It was just about a twenty-four hour vacation, but I couldn't
possibly imagine finding a better way to spend a weekend. Okay,
perhaps it would be better if I had a tent and some decent food --
but I'll have many chances to improve my "skills". I hope to meet all
of you and spend time around the camp fire some day soon.
SECRETARIAL SURFING
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Hello out there. I'm Scott Dorough and as your club's new
secretary--but more importantly in response to Arthur's
blatant threats to generate his own propaganda through this
medium--I thought now would be a good time to pass along a
"bit of information" on what I think is a fascinating
component of our sport.
This month, WAKE focuses its attention on Kayak Design.
The subject will be the feature of the membership meeting
and the follow-up workshop as we travel to Pt Townsend to
attend the annual West Coast Kayak Symposium. I recently
finished construction on my own kayak and in the process,
developed quite an appreciation and limited wisdom for the
assorted and often conflicting design nuances that are out
there, particularly for home-built craft. What insights I
offer here will be more of interest to those who like to
"roll their own."
So for you home builders or home builder wanna be's out
there, find a PC, get on line and find comfort in the
knowledge available to you in that omniscient World Wide
Web. What follows is only a primer, but with the myriad of
links to choose from, one can soon discover an absolute
wealth of fact and bias from which to construct a solid
opinion and choose a design to build on.
First, the three basic construction styles to build a
home-made boat from are: Skin-on-frame; Strip-built; Stitch
'n Glue. Strong, aesthetic and light weight, all three
styles of craft are typically supplied in the form of kits,
although plans are available for many designs. For the true
wooden boat aficionado, the strip-built is probably the most
aesthetic. The most time consuming and costly to construct,
a finished strip-built will turn heads and generate plenty
of complementary conversation. Although plenty sturdy and
seaworthy, these boats seem more suited for hanging above
the mantle--until you see one on the water.
Ride through the breakers on one of the most
authoritative strip-built Web sites I've found at Guillemot
Kayaks:
www.guillemot-kayaks.com.
In fact, this site ranks as one of the most informative of
any I've stumbled across for sheer volume of information
regarding home-built kayaks of all styles. In addition to
information on Guillemot Kayaks themselves, it has an
exhaustive set of links to other sites, covering subjects
ranging from a Builder's Manual for Dyson
Baidarkas--www.guillemot-kayaks.com/Building/Baidarkas/Manual.html--to
building your own kayak "on the cheap." (From this latter
site you'll learn step-by-step how to construct a boat for
less than $50...out of willow boughs and a blue plastic
tarp!--www.shelter-systems.com/kayak.html.)
Continuing your ride on the strip-built wave, check in
with Laughing Loon Custom Canoes & Kayaks at
www.LaughingLoon.com.
Don't get too caught up in the aura of East Coast
strip-builts, however. Surf on back out West and check out
the "locals" who are continuing the art of skin-on-frame
boat design. At
www.fidalgo.net/~kayak/handcrafted.html
learn about the advantages of building and paddling your own
traditional Aleut bairdaka--coated nylon in lieu of
politically incorrect whale bone and seal skin
notwithstanding. When speaking of building your own
baidarka, one can't forget Spirit Line Kayaks in Anacortes
and Dyson Bairdakas in Bellingham...but to see their boats
you'll have to loosen your grip on the mouse and go visit
them personally.
Lastly we enter the zone that I and a few others in this
club are quite familiar with: Plywood stitch 'n glue. Pygmy
Boat Works out of Pt Townsend, and found on the 'Net at
www.pygmyboats.com,
is the most recognizable supplier of these types of kit
builts around these parts. Not to be outdone, though, you'll
find popular competing designs at Chesapeake Light Craft,
www.clcboats.com.
There are other suppliers, to be sure, but these two are the
main market rivals for stitch 'n glue kits...and do they
ever have a rivalry! Coke Vs Pepsi comes to mind when these
two "square off" on the supremacy of butt Vs scarf joints.
Personally, I'm a butt man myself, but that's only because I
built a Pygmy Osprey three-seater and I've been very happy
with it. Admittedly, I've heard equal raves about
Chesapeake's Cape Charles so you'll have to decide for
yourself which joinery technique is superior...or, like
fizzy sugar water, if it really matters.
No navigation through the charted home-built sites would
be complete without coming to shore at The Wooden Boat Shop
in Seattle:
www.halcyon.com/wbs/wbs1.htm.
If you have difficulty finding anything for your personal
boat building project, chances are pretty good that The
Wooden Boat Shop will have it.
By this point, I expect your appetite for home-built
designs to be thoroughly whetted. Before wrapping up your
tour at the Kayak Symposium, I invite you to make one
intermediate port-of-call the weekend before at the Pt
Townsend Wooden Boat Festival ,
www.olympus.net/edu/wbf/fest.htm.
By the time you surf your way to this site, there will no
doubt be little time left for planning an excursion to the
festival. But if you have no problem with spontaneity and
you want one of the best opportunities to see the full
repertoire of home-built craft first hand, don't miss this
show.
Before you log off, though, feel free to call me or send
me an email at
sdorough@pacificrim.net.
I'd be glad to rendezvous in Pt Townsend with others out
there of kindred spirit who understand and appreciate the
mystique that can only be experienced from that unique
paddle craft singularly constructed, with your own hands.
Actually, Arthur's propaganda probably wouldn't be all that
bad. He paddles his own home-built, too!
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